BUDGIE TIPS ONE
Budgie Tips.
Foods - There are several foods which should never be fed to your budgie because they are toxic. This includes chocolate,coffee,soda,caffinated beverages,avocada,rhubarb and the area of pitted fruits which touch the pitt.Many fruit seeds are toxic to birds,so to be safe always remove any seeds from fruit you give your birds.You should also avoid giving your budgie anything but limited amounts of milk based products, as birds are lactose intolerant.Also , do not feed your budgie anything considered to be junk food ( ie chips,fried foods,sweets,white bread,etc).
Certain UNCOOKED dried beans contain what are referred to as "proteolytic enzyme inhibitors." These enzyme inhibitors may prevent or decrease the utilization in the body of substances such as trypsin and chymotrypsin to produce nutritional deficiences.
Beans that can interefere with proteolytic enzymes are lima, kidney and soybeans. Cooking of the beans destroys these enzyme inhibitors. Other dried beans do not appear to contain these enzyme inhibitors, or if present, are in low concentrations.
A Bird's respiratory tract is very different from that of a mammal's, and actually concentrates any smoke or fumes in the air,making them markedly more toxic.Basically , by the time an odour is strong enough for you to smell it ( or even before that),the chemicals could be damaging your bird's respiratory tract.
The following should all be considered dangerous around birds:
Smoke from any source is hazardous. Secondhand smoke from cigars and cigarettes can cause chronic eye,skin and respiratory disease. Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Tobacco is also toxic,so remove any whole or smoked cigars or cigarettes before allowing your bird access to a room.
Smoke from any source is hazardous. Secondhand smoke from cigars and cigarettes can cause chronic eye,skin and respiratory disease. Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Tobacco is also toxic,so remove any whole or smoked cigars or cigarettes before allowing your bird access to a room.
Gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, and other petroleum products.
Paint, wood stains and preservatives, mineral spirits, turpentine, paint remover, paint thinner,and other solvents.
Cleaning supplies and disinfectants including bleach, phenols, ammonia, pine oil, spot remover, window cleaning solution,fllor and furniture polish,scented candles,potpourri,tea tree oils,essential oils and air fresheners.Perfumes,hairsprays,room deodorizers,deodarant,nail polish remover and anything else with a propellant.
Other items that can give off fumes such as glues, permanent markers, and mothballs.
Do not use the above items in the presence of birds. If they are being used in large areas of the house,it is best to remove the bird from the house temporarily.
Changing diets
Once a bird has an established feeding pattern any change in the type of food presented or even a change in seed can put the bird of eating,so it is important to expose the birds to different foods early in life,during the imprinting stage of development.If new foods have to be introduced later this should be done over a period of weeks by gradually increasing the amount of new food mixed in with the original ration.
Once a bird has an established feeding pattern any change in the type of food presented or even a change in seed can put the bird of eating,so it is important to expose the birds to different foods early in life,during the imprinting stage of development.If new foods have to be introduced later this should be done over a period of weeks by gradually increasing the amount of new food mixed in with the original ration.
Cats commonly have Pasteurella bacteria as part of their natural flora. While this bacteria is ubiquitous in cats and does them no harm,it is DEADLY to birds.Even if your cat just bats your bird or gets saliva on your bird,you could end up with a dead budgie.Also,if your bird has a persistent problem with itching and other skin issues and you have a cat , this could be the cause and your vet should be asked to screen for this bacteria.If your bird is ever in a confrontation with a cat,take it to the vet immediately even if there are no apparent wounds.The bird could still have been exposed to this bavteria.
You should get your bird to a vet the same day if you think it has come in physical contact with a cat's saliva,feces or food.This bacteria means even friendly relationships between cats and birds are not safe.
If young hens fail to feed their first chick when hatched, I find that by giving them an older chick, say 3 or 4 days old,is sufficient to start them feeding normally.If you haven't got a suitable chick,try a little warm milk in a teaspoon,hold the spoon level,holding the chick gently in the other hand,bring it's beak to the spoon and just touch it's beak to the edge,very gently tilt the spoon,you will see the crop gradually filling with milk,do not over feed,do not try to force feed it,it will flow itself. You may be rquired to feed it a couple of times before the hen starts feeding it.
Don't be too quick in removing the chicks from the parents, providing the parents (Cock) is accepting them, leave them as long as possible,they certainly thrive better than when removed.Another good idea is when the chicks are about four weeks old,place a small portion of millet spray in the nest box every evening,the chicks will soon copy the hen at picking at the spray.The result is they have a good idea of how to crack seed when they leave the nest.Another thing is to place a small shallow dish of water in the bottom of the cage when the chicks leave the nest,this stops them dehydrating,which is the factor of them dropping their tails and flights.This is commonly seen in some avairies and is often mistaken for french moult.
Egg binding occurs when a hen who is forming an egg in her uterus does not have enough calcium to finish forming the egg shell.The shell does not become hard enough to push out,which causes the hen extreme stress and risk.
To prevent egg binding it is very important to have a cuttlebone and mineral block available in the breeding cage.It is important to regulary check if the cuttlefish bone and mineral block have been used up,if so they need to be replaced immediately.Always have oyster shell grit available,this is also a good calcium source and if necessary you may need to supply a calcium supplement like calcivite.
To prevent egg binding it is very important to have a cuttlebone and mineral block available in the breeding cage.It is important to regulary check if the cuttlefish bone and mineral block have been used up,if so they need to be replaced immediately.Always have oyster shell grit available,this is also a good calcium source and if necessary you may need to supply a calcium supplement like calcivite.
Understanding Budgie Body Language
There are a few aspects of budgie behaviour which can indicate how the bird is feeling.
A contented budgie will sit well on its perch either in a proud displaying stance or with feathers puffed out,in a more comfortable,relaxed and chattering mood,with a variety of sounds which can vary in volume from the barely audible to those which can be heard over the radio.A contented budgie will also audibly grind it's beak as if it's cracking seed.
A frightened budgie will screech loudly, its feathers flattened, eyes alert in readiness to take off at a moments notice.
A distressed budgie will hold its wings away from its body and often appear to be panting or breathing hard with it's beak open,sometimes even closing it's eyes for brief periods. A budgie displaying this behaviour is under stress, it is not happy, it is either scared of something or is just too hot and may even regurgitate seed under these conditions,rubbing it's head and expelling the seed some distance from it's body.
The alarm call is a sharp hissed 'tssst tssst' sound. This can be used sparingly to make a budgie stop what it is doing and fly off. A useful means of communication if the bird is out of reach and chewing at something it should not.
Budgies will bite in self defence. This is a hard bite as opposed to a playful nibble and a sign that the bird does not want to be bothered.As already noted , females bite the hardest and it is not unknown for them to draw blood.It is a good idea to back off when a budgie starts biting hard as nothing will be gained by pursuing an activity other than annoying the bird and that will get you nowhere regards taming or training.
Even a single budgie will display courtship behaviour, generally directed at its reflection in a mirror, but it has been known for this behaviour to occur between a budgie and it's owner if there is a particulary strong bond between them.The eyes go into pinholes with the pupils contracting so that you see a large ring of white with a tiny black dot in the centre,the bird chatters and bobs it's head up and down against it's perceived partner.raising and lowering the feathers on it's head.This is when the budgie will feed it's reflection in the mirror.When males do this you will find de - husked seed stuck to the mirror and on the cage floor beneath it,females produce more of a soup which can make quite a mess dripping of the mirror.
The reason for this difference is because males show off their ability to feed their mate, whereas females regurgitate food which would be suitable for their young chicks.
A female who is ready to mate while she is in the pinhole display mood will make a buzzing sound and go into a U shape with tail and head held high and allow her neck and chest to be stroked,pushing herself against your finger.
My New Budgie Doesn't Eat!You may have brought home your new budgie and observed that he/she doesn't eat very much,or at all.Moving away from the flock and into a totally new enviroment can be quite stressful for a budgie.This can cause them to be reluctant to eat.
It is important for your budgie to consume enough food. When you purchase your budgie, find out from the breeder or pet store what brand of seed the budgies are eating.Ask if you can have a small amount,or purchase a bag of the seed. Having the same food your budgie is used will help encourage it to eat. You should also buy some millet sprays and attach one or
two in the cage next to his/her favorite spot with a clip or a twist tie. Spray millet is a favorite treat that budgies find hard to resist.Also baby budgies will often want to eat of the floor,so spread some seed on the bottom of the cage for them.If the cage bottom is grated bars,use a wide plastic lid to put seeds in.
Once your budgie is eating well and has settled into his/her new environment, you can gradually change the brand of seed if you wish and only offer the millet spray twice a week as a treat.
Once your budgie is eating well and has settled into his/her new environment, you can gradually change the brand of seed if you wish and only offer the millet spray twice a week as a treat.
Two budgies.
Ever wondered what life is like with two budgies? Well, guess what? Here's a little rundown: we wake you up at the crack of dawn, demand to be let out of the cage, cause all kind of mischief, and annoy the heck out of all you humans! Okay, okay... so we can be cute and adorable, too... and yeah, we'll even fall asleep on your shoulder and do funny tricks for you... but shhh! don't tell anyone!
Handling.
Your new Budgie may be nervous at first. Talk to him, do not handle him for a week or so to let him get used to his new surroundings. Gradually over the next few weeks, introduce your hand into his cage whilst talking to him then you will slowly gain his confidence. When handling your Budgie you need to be very gentle. Handling your Budgie can cause shock and distress which can be fatal. Budgies should not be allowed to fly outside their cages until finger tame.
Exercise & Entertainment:
Budgies are intelligent and inquisitive birds that enjoy playing and climbing. Toys are essential to stimulate them mentally and physically – especially important for birds kept on their own. Budgies can also be taught to mimic sounds and talk. If they hear the same words repeatedly from the same person they may pick them up and begin mimicking the words or phrases. A solitary bird will need more attention and affection than a pair or group and should be handled every day.I know you get upset with me when I knock over my water bowl, throw food, scream or pluck my feathers. I don't do these to annoy you-I am probably trying to tell you something (perhaps that I am hurting, lonely, or sad.) Learn to speak MY (body) language. Remember that I, alone of all creatures on this planet, learn to speak yours
Listen to your pet.
I am a gregarious flock animal-but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day-no matter what your schedule or other needs are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your predictablity in looking after me-every day
I am a gregarious flock animal-but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day-no matter what your schedule or other needs are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your predictablity in looking after me-every day
Understanding your budgie.
Raised wings- A way of cooling off when he or she is overheated.
Yawning- Usually budgies yawn when they are tired, but a series of yawns can indicate a sign
Yawning- Usually budgies yawn when they are tired, but a series of yawns can indicate a sign
of low oxegen.
Rubbing their beack against a perch-This is the way a budgie cleans its bill after a good meal.
Burying its head under its feathers- This indicates that your budgie is sleeping
Standing on one foot- Again this is another sleeping position.
It looks thin- This indicates that the budgie is scared stiff!!
Grinding in the bill- This indicates thats your budgie is happy.
Shaking its feathers-This is how a budgie gets rid of its dirt particles. This can also indicate a mood change.
Rubbing their beack against a perch-This is the way a budgie cleans its bill after a good meal.
Burying its head under its feathers- This indicates that your budgie is sleeping
Standing on one foot- Again this is another sleeping position.
It looks thin- This indicates that the budgie is scared stiff!!
Grinding in the bill- This indicates thats your budgie is happy.
Shaking its feathers-This is how a budgie gets rid of its dirt particles. This can also indicate a mood change.
Male budgies cere turns brown.
There are two possible causes for this. The first, and most serious cause, is reproductive tumors.Only a vet can diagnose this.The second,harmless,cause usually occurs if you have a group of male budgies,or one male who is particurlary sunmissive.They do not change sex,but their ceres may change to mimic a hen to show the other males that they are not a threat.However,since reproduction tumours are a more common cause, it's best to visit a avian vet asap to cionfirm or deny the presence of tumours.
Food mistakes with birds
Here are some common big mistakes some inexperienced bird owners can and have made. Most of these seem to happen with small birds, such as budgies (parakeets) and cockatiels.
"The bowl looks full but it's not!" Learn how to recognize eaten seed vs. edible seed. Birds who eat seed leave behind hulls that can be mistaken for whole seeds. I've heard of owners leaving the food bowl in without changing it for days, resulting in a bird that starves to death "with a full foodbowl." (Food and water should be replaced daily at minimum.)
"If it's not on the ground, it's not food." Some young birds, especially young budgies, don't know how to eat (or drink) from their new bowls. They don't recognize the contents as food; they only know how to eat seed off the cage floor. If you notice a new bird not eating from its bowl for a long time, you may want to try lowering the foodbowl and/or putting a shallow saucer of food on the floor for the bird to see if it eats from there. (Some young birds don't yet understand clear bowls -- they try to eat through the clear walls -- so you may need to show your bird which part of the bowl is open.) Experiment and try different ways of teaching the bird where to get its food.
"Where's my water? I can't find any!" The same applies to water as with food: young birds don't know that a particular container contains water. Try showing the bird the water moving around in the container, or get a little drop to drip from the edge near the bird. After a while, the bird usually gets the idea that there's water in the container. If switching to water bottles: show the bird how the water bottle works (make sure it sees water dripping from the nozzle, etc.), and never switch completely away from a bowl until you're really sure the bird knows how to drink from the water bottle. Watch for "jammed up" water nozzles whenever you clean and refill it -- make sure the bird can get water from it when you put it back.
"Is that all I get??" It's safer to over-feed a bird at first, rather than risk starving the bird. Reduce quantities only once you get a good feel for how much the bird needs. Experiment to make sure you're right. Birds can get fat, especially on some diets, but err on the cautious side.
"You poisoned my water!" Some birds will refuse to drink water with medicine (and/or perhaps vitamins) added. Observe the bird carefully for the first few days. Know your bird's limits; some birds will give in and get their medicine, while others will still refuse to drink to the point where it can hurt them. A good vet can find some other way to medicate your bird, other than the water.
"I'd rather starve than touch that!" Whether because they hate the food or just don't know it's food, some birds can and do starve to death rather than eat new foods. (And even if a bird nibbles at something, it doesn't mean he understands it's food; he might just think it's a chew toy! Make SURE he's swallowing it and knows it's food!) In switching to new foods, always make sure the bird is eating enough food of some sort to stay healthy (and if you don't know how much is enough, talk to your avian vet). A very small bird has a high metabolism and requires frequent meals, so while one night of hunger may be OK for a healthy bird, more than that can be dangerous. Bird Talk magazine, among other sources, has more information on how to convert birds to new foods.
"All I want is seed." As stated elsewhere, a seed-only diet is insufficient. Some birds, especially those that are not tame, may be next to impossible to convert to a healthy non-seed-only diet, but hand-tame birds, though often stubborn, can usually be converted much more easily. Start young -- young birds are much more willing to try out new foods. Suggestions on how to teach your bird to eat veggies and pellets.
"That's REALLY not food for me." It happens that sometimes, really clueless owners will try to feed the bird something inappropriate, like in the story I read in Bird Talk of an owner trying to feed a toucan a certain sugary cereal associated with a cartoon toucan -- but real toucans are carnivorous! Make sure you get food appropriate for your bird.
"Ewww, my bowl is gross." Clean the water and food containers thoroughly daily! (More often if there's poop in them.) Tip: to rinse away stubborn detergent, spray on some vinegar, and then rinse thoroughly in water. (Very useful for water bottles.) Watch for nooks and crannies in bowls and bottles where germs hide, such as the corners: if the surface feels slimy, you have a bacterial build-up!
"Not watching the bird eat/drink/play/sleep is OK; it'll be fine." Wrong!!! First time owners ESPECIALLY need to learn to observe a bird. Learn its body language. Find out how to tell if it's healthy, sick, lonely. Anticipate its needs; always provide fresh food and water, and make sure it eats and drinks. Do your research; read the bird magazines, buy the birdie books, and TAKE YOUR BIRD TO A GOOD AVIAN VET. Ask your avian vet all your questions. Don't be afraid to call up your vet at the first sign of trouble! Birds can get very sick very fast.
"Beware inobvious poisons." NEVER FEED YOUR BIRD CHOCOLATE. It's poisonous to them. So is avocado and hence guacamole (parts of the fruit are toxic). No alcohol. No caffeine. No lead, no cigarette butts (cigarette smoke is bad, too). Watch out for poisonous houseplants, too. NEVER USE TEFLON COOKWARE IN A HOUSE WITH BIRDS.
There are doubtless many other things to know. Do your research: buy/borrow books and magazines, talk to bird owners, and talk to your qualified avian vet. Good luck! Author unknown.
I am a gregarious flock animal-but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day-no matter what your schedule or other needs are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your predictablity in looking after me-every day.
I know you get upset with me when I knock over my water bowl, throw food, scream or pluck my feathers. I don't do these to annoy you-I am probably trying to tell you something (perhaps that I am hurting, lonely, or sad.) Learn to speak MY (body) language. Remember that I, alone of all creatures on this planet, learn to speak yours.
Ever wondered what life is like with two budgies? Well, guess what? Here's a little rundown: we wake you up at the crack of dawn, demand to be let out of the cage, cause all kind of mischief, and annoy the heck out of all you humans! Okay, okay... so we can be cute and adorable, too... and yeah, we'll even fall asleep on your shoulder and do funny tricks for you... but shhh! don't tell anyone!
Budgies that are kept indoors won't have the chance to bathe when it rains, so the feathers can become dry and ruffled. You can get a budgie bath that fits over the cage door, but some budgies don't like bathing in still water. You can use a sprayer to mimic a bath in the rain. Fill a fine mist sprayer used for plants with lukewarm water. Take out the food pots from the cage, and gently spray just above the budgie's head so that the water droplets fall like rain. This should be done weekly.
Grow your own tree.
A willow tree can grow very large over a short period of time giving you an abundance of leaves and branches for your avairies and cages.The branches will be stripped and chewed and the Salicylic acid in the branches is the main ingredient of Aspirin - so it has medicinal properties.
If you have room in your garden you can strike a willow cutting very easily,break a piece off a willow tree about 25mm diameter and plant the cut end 100mm into the soil and they should strike and start growing by spring.
Safe wood for perches.
Safe natural wood branches for birds include the following:
Apple - Arbutus - Ash - Aspen - Beech - Birch - Cottonwood - Crabapple - Dogwood - Elm - Fir - Hawthorn -
Larch - Magnolia - Manzanita - Mulberry - Pear - Pine - Poplar - Sequoia (redwood) - Willow.
DO NOT use apricot, cherry, peach, prune, plum or nectarine. These trees all belong to the Prunus species. They contain cyanogenic glycosides which release cyanide if ingested.
Apple - Arbutus - Ash - Aspen - Beech - Birch - Cottonwood - Crabapple - Dogwood - Elm - Fir - Hawthorn -
Larch - Magnolia - Manzanita - Mulberry - Pear - Pine - Poplar - Sequoia (redwood) - Willow.
DO NOT use apricot, cherry, peach, prune, plum or nectarine. These trees all belong to the Prunus species. They contain cyanogenic glycosides which release cyanide if ingested.
Eucalyptus branches are nontoxic and are safe to use as natural wood perches.
Although FRESH eucalyptus leaves have been given to birds without causing illness, ingestion of a large amount of the leaves can cause vomiting, diarrhea, crop impaction and muscle weakness in avians.
Avoid giving DRY eucalyptus leaves or using dry eucalyptus leaves for nesting material. These may be contaminated with Aspergillus spores.
Although FRESH eucalyptus leaves have been given to birds without causing illness, ingestion of a large amount of the leaves can cause vomiting, diarrhea, crop impaction and muscle weakness in avians.
Avoid giving DRY eucalyptus leaves or using dry eucalyptus leaves for nesting material. These may be contaminated with Aspergillus spores.
Incense contains: charcoal, starch, karaya gum, clay, aromatic chemicals and essential oils.
The essential oils have the potential for causing toxicity in birds in the same way as the essential oils in scented candles, air fresheners and carpet fresheners.
It is not recommended that you burn incense in an area where birds are exposed to the fumes.
The essential oils have the potential for causing toxicity in birds in the same way as the essential oils in scented candles, air fresheners and carpet fresheners.
It is not recommended that you burn incense in an area where birds are exposed to the fumes.
Facts.
From hatching until weaned - 42 days. body temperature 40 - 42 c.
Incubation 18 days. life span 7 to 10 years sexual maturity 4 - 5 months old.
Personality
Budgerigars are, very generally speaking, accepting of humans and other birds, but should never be housed with a bird other than another budgerigar. Care should be taken when placing several female budgies together, as they can do serious harm to one another if they do not get along. It is easier and often more convenient to either keep either an even number of both males and females or to only keep male birds altogether as these generally get along with each other without any problem. Contrary to historical beliefs modern literature agrees that budgerigars should never be kept single as this can cause serious harm to the bird both physically and psychologically. They are relatively easily tamed.
Bird lovers often comment on the differences in personality in each individual bird. Budgies each have their own unique ideas about how much they like to be handled, which toys are their favourites, and even what music they like or are indifferent to.
Reproduction
The male will stand on female's back while some beak contact is made between the mates. The male will then wrap his tail under the female's raised tail, place his cloaca against hers and rub it back and forth to stimulate ejaculation. The male may move away for a moment before returning for another session.
Excercise
EXCERCISE-budgerigars are creatures of abounding vitality and endless energy,and if you can watch them in an aviary you will see they are never still.They nibble at this and that,they investigate everything and invent endless entertainment for themselves,how can they keep it up we would have a heart attack but the fast tempo is natural to them.
Put one in a cage and what happens?They suffer physically and psychologically also because this is a restraint that is altogether unnatural to them.They have the instinct to fly free with unfettered flight,you must arrange for at least a little satisfaction or your bird will never be happy and YOU won't get as much real companionship from them.Don't just let him out of the cage now and again and hope that will do-spend a little effort on him whenever you can,play with him.Put a ping pong ball in his cage and watch his antics and once he's tame bring him and his ball onto the carpet,flick his ball and watch him chase,play and be a happy little chappy.Your play will create that friendship bond,friendship does not grow it's cultivated.the cage-this must be as big as possible with perches as far apart as possible so the bird as to make a flying leap,this streches every muscle in his body and he must do it every day as much as possible.DO NOT put the cage in front of the window exposure to the direct rays of the sun is real torture to them.It is also a direct cause of soft moult.Watch them in an aviary,heat quickly wilts them,they love in the rain,they adore snow,can stand cold but do not want red hot sun.Mechanically ,a budgie is a compararatively simple organization and if his health is at all below par he falls an easy victim to infection-particulary to human infections like common colds and tummy upsets.They are as a rule one of the healthiest of all domesticated pets and can live for years without any illness.Draughts are deadly they strike right into the budgies weakest spot-his susceptibility to chill,once a chill strikes anything can follow.If we can recognise illness in our pet right away we can effect a cure but neglect it for a few days and a cure is likely to be impossible,be on the alert,know what to look for and what to do about it.
I always remember my first cars and by removing the plugs and examining them it told you different things about the condition of your motor,i applied this many years ago to my budgerigars droppings,under the perches in the avairies i have strips of ply wood which catch the droppings,i scrape and wash these weekly and if i spot any unusual discharge i look for the bird and react immediatley,isolation,heat and tender loving care.
Put one in a cage and what happens?They suffer physically and psychologically also because this is a restraint that is altogether unnatural to them.They have the instinct to fly free with unfettered flight,you must arrange for at least a little satisfaction or your bird will never be happy and YOU won't get as much real companionship from them.Don't just let him out of the cage now and again and hope that will do-spend a little effort on him whenever you can,play with him.Put a ping pong ball in his cage and watch his antics and once he's tame bring him and his ball onto the carpet,flick his ball and watch him chase,play and be a happy little chappy.Your play will create that friendship bond,friendship does not grow it's cultivated.the cage-this must be as big as possible with perches as far apart as possible so the bird as to make a flying leap,this streches every muscle in his body and he must do it every day as much as possible.DO NOT put the cage in front of the window exposure to the direct rays of the sun is real torture to them.It is also a direct cause of soft moult.Watch them in an aviary,heat quickly wilts them,they love in the rain,they adore snow,can stand cold but do not want red hot sun.Mechanically ,a budgie is a compararatively simple organization and if his health is at all below par he falls an easy victim to infection-particulary to human infections like common colds and tummy upsets.They are as a rule one of the healthiest of all domesticated pets and can live for years without any illness.Draughts are deadly they strike right into the budgies weakest spot-his susceptibility to chill,once a chill strikes anything can follow.If we can recognise illness in our pet right away we can effect a cure but neglect it for a few days and a cure is likely to be impossible,be on the alert,know what to look for and what to do about it.
I always remember my first cars and by removing the plugs and examining them it told you different things about the condition of your motor,i applied this many years ago to my budgerigars droppings,under the perches in the avairies i have strips of ply wood which catch the droppings,i scrape and wash these weekly and if i spot any unusual discharge i look for the bird and react immediatley,isolation,heat and tender loving care.