Feather Plucking
Feather plucking is a common problem that is seen quite frequently in avian practice. Causes of feather plucking are varied. We commonly see members of the parrot family with this complaint. The main candidates are household pets.
A complete, thorough scientific approach is needed to identify the possible cause.
An improvement in diet can help to assist in new feather growth and the quality of feather generated. We advise the use of - Pretty Bird or Harrisons for complete nutrition of birds.
Psychological problems are the most common cause of feather plucking.
How to approach the problem.
Firstly a definitive diagnosis is needed, or a working diagnosis which is the most likely cause. It is wise to consider blood tests to rule out any physical disease.
Examination of the skin and feathers needs to be done to rule out any possibility of external skin disease.
If the above tests are negative, the bird is likely to have a psychological problem. Birds are intelligent and demanding, these needs must be met to ensure a happy life.
What if my bird has a psychological problem?
The first step is to work out why the problem occurs.
Birds will pluck for a variety of reasons and at different times depending on the cause.
Some pluck to get attention from the owner. Frequently this occurs when the owner is in sight of bird but is not interacting with it (such as watching the T.V.). Other birds may shriek to get attention. Most-owners then interact with the bird in an attempt to persuade it to shut up or stop plucking its feathers. This is exactly what the bird wanted.
Some birds may bite their owner when on their shoulder for the same reason.
Boredom is also a major factor; a lack of stimulation from the birds environment can lead to feather plucking. Feather plucking gives the bird a high due to the pain response and it can become addictive.
A bird can also develop a neurosis, which is a failure to adapt to its environment and this leads to inappropriate behaviour, one of which is feather plucking.
The cause of a neurosis can be varied and some examples are given below:
Cage size, shape and location
Other animals and birds
Lack of other animals and birds
Not enough (or too many) toys
Too many visitors
Loud noises or arguments
Children
Isolation
Of these the restriction from the cage is the main problem in causing a neurosis.
Treatment
Firstly the cage design and size needs to be examined. The larger a cage is the better. It is a good idea to move the cage around so a varying environment stimulates the bird. Let the bird out as often as possible.
The environment needs to be checked to ensure the bird has periods of rest and escape from it, having an area the bird can hide behind is ideal. The bird may also respond to having a consistent bedtime and at least 12 hours of sleep. Cover the cage at night.
Regulate contact with people and animals to prevent stress from prolonged contact but allow the bird to retreat if it has had enough. Contact is vital to prevent boredom and frequent small amounts are best.
Punishment should be given with caution as this may provide the bird with attention and reinforce the behaviour, but it may also lead to fear of or aggression to the owner. Try using isolation for short periods (by covering the cage), or using a warm water spray or withholding tidbits to prevent a direct association with you. If the bird is sat on your shoulder shaking suddenly will disorientate the bird and alarm it. If it continues to bite then it should be placed in the cage. It is far better to prevent the situation from occurring.
Toys should be rationed and only left in the cage for a week or two. A maximum of two or three toys is enough. Each week one toy is removed and replaced by a new one. This situation should generate a stimulated bird keen to interact with novel stimuli. If your bird is nervous or hides in response to a new toy then it has not been socialised well. After a few weeks the original toy can be placed in the cage again. This also extends the shelf life or the toys.